General Information
This FAQ covers KTM's 690 Enduro, or 690E. The 690E has several brothers: the 690 SuperMoto, the 690 SuperMoto R, and a cousin in the form of the 690 Duke. All these bikes share the same, new-generation counterbalanced LC4 engine that displaces 654cc. The 690 Enduro became available world-wide in 2008. (The SuperMoto was available in 2007.)
Note that the Enduro and SMC are substantially the same and can share most parts, but the SM is a very different bike with limited parts interchangeability.
This FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) list is provided for reference only. I try to ensure that the information is accurate, but I make no warranty expressed or implied about the information herein. Use at your own risk, and I take no responsibility for any damage that may occur as a result of your use or mis-use of information in this document. I am not in any way affiliated with KTM and this document is not an official KTM document. I also take no credit for the information presented, as it represents the combined wisdom and experience of owners and fans from throughout the world.
Known Issues
Known issues are ones that are reported by a very large number of users and which seem to not be due to an out-of-spec part or a manufacturing or assembly error.
Left Rear Turn Signal Melting
- Flexible LED turn signals from Electrosport. These are small enough that they're out of the way of the exhaust gasses. They're also very flexible, so they should persevere through most tip-overs. Unfortunately they are not DOT certified, so if your state requires regular vehicle inspections this could be a problem for you. Note that because they are LED you may need the optional relay to get them to flash at a reasonable speed.
- Use zip ties over the tail to pull both signals up and out of the way of the exhaust. You'll want to put something between the zip ties and the painted surface of the tail to prevent scratching.
- Cut some short pieces of ~12 gauge wire and shove them into the bottom half of the grooves of the turn signal stalk. Now wrap the stalk in electrical tape to keep the wire bits from falling out. This will force the stalk to curve upwards and out of the path of the exhaust gasses.
- Cut a large rubber washer, like you'd find in a common garden hose, in half and use it to shim the stalk upwards at the mounting point.
Limited Turning Radius
Limited Availability of the Endorsed Motor Oil
Gas Tank Bushing Slop
Dust in the Air Intake
Modifications
Second and Third Gear De-restriction
Looking at the left side of the bike you will see a bunch of wires coming out of the top of the front sprocket cover. Follow them up to the area where the throttle body connects to the cylinder head. You will see a black junction. There are three wires coming out of the top of that junction. They are colored grey, black/green and yellow/brown. There are three wires going into the bottom of that junction colored light green, yellow/green and blue/red. Unplug the yellow/green and the blue/red wires. The light green one is required for the neutral light. The other two tell the computer the gear position.
Don't cut the wires! If you cut the cable ties you'll have enough slack to get to the connector block. Using some pliers, grip the wire, then twist and pull the cable from the black block and it will come loose with the connector attached. It takes a bit of pulling, but then you can re-fit if needed. Wrap each connector end separately with electrical tape to prevent shorting and then re-tie the wires with new cable ties.
Alternately, unplug the connector. It's held together with a small locking mechanism. Gently insert a small screwdriver (like a jeweler's screwdriver) to get it apart. It'll take more effort than you think, but not too much. If you take a minute to examine the connector it'll be pretty obvious how it's held together.
Once you've got it apart, look inside the male portion of the connector. You'll see the three prongs, one for each wire. With a pair of narrow pliers, grab one at a time (only the yellow/green and blue/red) and pull as if you were going to pull the wire further through the connector.
The prong will click out of position a bit. Pull a tad harder and it'll work itself a little farther out. You don't need brute force, just patience and steady force.
Once that's done, pull the prong and wire out from the back side of the connector. It should come right out, and come out clean. It will work—just a little trial and error is all it'll take. All you're doing is reversing the way the thing was assembled originally.
Don't get brutal with it—it simply is not necessary. Trial, error and patience.
Akrapovic Computer Map
Folding Mirrors
Tank Bags
Electrical Accessory Leads
Adjusting the Odometer for Different Front Wheel Circumferences
*Install Odometer
*Turn key to "on" and with the meter set to "Trip 1", press and hold "Mode" for 10 sec.
Length xxxx (the 17" circumference) will show up (flashing), press "mode" to increase and "set" to decrease the circumference.
The correct setting for 21" should be 2205.
*Press "mode" and "set" simultanously to set it.
The only thing that the "pin 18" do is lock the Odo from adjusting wheelsize.